When I pulled the wires into the fiberglass circuit box there ended up being a bit of a birds nest below so I ended up trying to straighten up the mess a bit by pulling the wires back into the pontoon area and one at a time bringing them into the circuit box again. Had I to do this over again I would have mounted the circuit box first and then pull the wires from the front to the back brought them directly into the circuit box, this would have made for a cleaner installation.

I used some 1/4" diameter studs put in for the battery cables to connect to, I think that the hardware store called them hanger bolts, one end has a wood screw while the other end has a machine thread able to accept nuts/washers. The copper eyelet terminals for the heavy cables worked out great they use a tapered nut to cinch the cable in the end of the lugs.

Next I mounted the starter solenoid and pop-riveted some wire tie saddles to the inside edges of the circuit box, these will help keep the internal wiring orderly and neat in appearance. Then I mounted one of the terminal strips ran some ground wires, and terminated a number of wires.

I used some small shutter hinges to attach the door onto the box and used 3/16" pop rivets to attach it. I backed up all pop rivets that went through the fiberglass with some small #10 washers, this way the pop rivet will not crush the fiberglass. All of the wires that exit out the top left either to the tail/brake lights, the 3rd brake light, dome light or electric solenoids for the rear latches. These wires will probably have one or two connectors near the hinge portion of the rear canopy so that the canopy can be easily removed.

Once the radiator comes in I may need to move the location of the ignition control module, hopefully I left enough room under it to mount the radiator. Until all of the wiring is completed I will not tighten the wire ties, I am trying to take a lot of care in the appearance to keep it neat and orderly in addition to using shrink wrap wherever possible.

Finally I got out the original wiring harness that was from the VFR750, and made the connections to all engine components. It took a while to sort them out and ensure that they were connected properly. Now that all connections are positioned I can route the wires and make the final connections. I was able to mount the fuel pump relay right at the fuel pump instead of locating it in the circuit box so this will save a little bit of room inside the circuit box.

I have to say that I like the personal touch, Scott has good communication skills and definitely is concerned about the customer and his products.

I used some flexible 1/2" wire wrap from the circuit box to the rear canopy, terminated the wires with a connector, the used the 1/2" wrap all the way to the farthest tail light. About every foot I used a wire tie and saddle to hold the bundle.

For the latch wiring as well as wiring for the license light, latch release button and backup buzzer I used some 1/4" wire wrap. Where ever possible I used some shrink wrap at the ends of the wire wrap, and then used black electrical tape on both ends to keep the shrink wrap in place otherwise it could come off the wire wrap. Anyplace that you branch the wiring use some electrical tape around the wire wrap and it will give it a nice appearance:

I ended up removing the factory connectors on the tail lights and replacing them using a 4-wire connector that I purchased from Jameco, it was easier than trying to locate and purchase the original one. Every component will have some sort of removable connector so that it can be removed/replaced relatively easily.

When wiring you have to remember that all components need to have a ground wire ran to it for proper operation. This is typically not supplied with aftermarket wiring harness, you will have to provide this wire. I used some #16 gauge black wire for just this purpose and will use it for grounding everything but the front headlights, there I will be using some #14 gauge wire as the headlights consume a larger current than most everything else.

Next I moved my attention to the 3rd brake light. I had previously purchased a strip of quad-mounted led's and wanted to mount this strip on the rear canopy above the window - for me it is a visibility thing - I want to be seen. I figured the best way to mount it was to recess the ends of the strip into the body and use some 1/2" acrylic attachment tape along the length.

First thing I did is to use some masking tape and draw out the area to be recessed. Then using a drill bit remove most of the material, finally using a die grinder I finished out the pockets. I had to shorten up the strip a bit and cut off about 3" from the total length, each end is recessed about 3/4" into the canopy.

I tested the original horn that I bought from Advance Auto and it was *real* loud, sounded like a truck. Not exactly what I was looking for so I returned it and bought a different one, this time I sampled it in the store and think that it was more appropriate for my vehicle.

I also went to Auto Zone and they had some small interior courtesy lights that I may try to use for the front trunk area. They were cheap and relatively small so I bought two of them.

As the LED lights needed to be installed parallel to the deck I decided to use some 1-1/2" aluminum angle to form as a light bracket. This bracket is installed along the width of the rear canopy deck with each LED light mounted on each side about 27" from the front of the deck lid.

Here is a picture of the installed push button switch on the drivers side:

Here is a picture of the installed light bar and one with the LED lights on:

Ok so why 27" you ask? This is the dimension from the front of the trunk area to the area just before the intermediate shaft. I figure that if I need to put up some sort of 'curtain' to keep splash from the rear tire into the engine area that I could hang it from this aluminum bar as well. So this bar is positioned for this possibility as well.

In addition I basically completed wiring up the front trunk area today. I was careful to use 1/2" and 1/4" flex wire wrap and tuck all the wiring up under the trunk lid so that it is almost out of sight. I ended up putting in a terminal block which connects to the battery negative cable, all trunk ground connections go to it. Also got the 50amp maxi fuse installed on the battery positive cable and wired into the fuse block. There is no real good way to mount it so it will simply sit on top of the battery. Both connections use #10 gauge wire.

I got the dome lights installed into the front trunk area with them mounted along the the top trunk lip, in addition they are also turned on manually with an installed push-button switch on the drivers side. I connected the lights to the interior dome light circuit for power.

I purchased a couple of 6v lantern batteries, figuring that I could hook them in series to obtain 12v to do some system testing with, but on a number of occasions they just could not put out the amperage required for turn signals or headlights, so I cautiously connected the 12v auto battery. First in order was to put on some battery terminals that I purchased, in addition I needed to pull off some leads for the ground terminal block as well as the system power for the fuse block. I used #10 gauge wires for each of these leads and connected the (+) lead and installed the 50amp maxi fuse between the battery and the fuse block.

The (-) lead I directed to a terminal block so that I could connect other ground leads to it in the trunk area. I also installed another terminal block near the fuse block in the passenger compartment and connected them also with a #10 gauge wire. Since the body is not metal *everything* needs to have ground wires ran to each electrical component. After wiring up the headlight switch I cautiously connected the big battery and started to do some quick preliminary circuit tests, running/parking lights, turn signals, headlights, front trunk dome lights and rear canopy LED lights.

Things checked out pretty well however I did see something unusual with both the turn signal indicators and high beam lights in the instrument cluster on all the time and will need to check this out further. Pretty good initial testing, it is better to be a bit cautious to keep future problems to a minimum.

Once I ran the ground wire all the turn signals and high beam indicators worked properly. Tested all tail lights, turn signals along with headlight and high-beam operation and all tested out ok. I had to run a ground wire from the steering column as well as the horn button on the wheel uses this to power the horn relay. The horn is installed way up inside the front drivers wheel well and should be pretty protected from throw-off from the tire. Tested it and it works properly.

I received the radiator from Wizard Cooling last night, one minor problem that they forgot to put on the mounting tabs... I talked with Scott Attig and he apologized for the oversight and is sending a call pickup for me so that the shipping back to him is prepaid. Apparently with the Thanksgiving holiday they rushed to get it out and will take care of making it good. Here is a picture of what it looks like:

While I had it I checked for fit and appears to be just about right. I connected up the electrical relay for the fan assembly and got it all wired up. The relay uses a 20amp fuse and connects directly to the positive terminal, this way if I turn off the vehicle the fans will continue to operate and cool down the radiator.

Here is a wiring schematic for how I connected the relay/fans, click on it for a larger image:

While doing some other checking out of the electrical system I noticed that the starter relay did not seem to want to kick in, further investigation I discovered that the frame wanted to be grounded so I connected a short wire from the frame to the terminals and it worked just fine. More testing and I found that I reversed the rear running lights and stop lights, a simple pin switch in the connectors took care of that.

I located and wired up the rear license frame I am using some screws on the lower 2 holes to attach the frame for now, the upper 2 holes will be used to retain the license plate if that turns out to be insufficient then bolts will be used all the way through all 4 holes. Here is a picture of the frame and inside wiring:

Next I went through the remaining wires that were not connected and bundled up the ones that would not be currently used and put them away inside the front dash. With the instrument cluster that I am using I have all the gauges and indicator lights that I will be needing and only a couple of other controls to add on such as: headlight control, windshield wiper control, choke and maybe one or two others.

I decided to initially put in the dash controls directly into the dashboard for now, later on I will make up some fancier panel and make the dashboard look nicer, but for now decided to install the controls the easiest way possible so I put in the headlight control directly into the dashboard. The headlight switch is actually a pretty large item and takes up a lot more room than you might initially suspect! So I mounted it pretty close to the instrument cluster.

Another item that I wanted to get connected and working today was the radio/cd player, I had to first figure out where and how I was going to locate it and if I put it into the dashboard it would have taken up too much room so I opted to initially mount it under the dashboard. A quick check and I saw that it was still out of foot range. Then I had to tig weld on a couple of mounting tabs onto the radio chassis so that I could mount it underneath, once done wire brushed it down and sprayed a bit of paint onto the affected areas so that they would not rust and mounted it under the dash.

Crawled into the passenger compartment and routed and connected up all of the necessary wiring laying on my back - not a pleasant position but unfortunately necessary! Got all of the wires connected, bundled and used some wire ties to retain it. Another quick system check and all worked well - so I put in a CD and played some music.