Moss Motors also has another master cylinder available (#580-110 small cap), this master cylinder was used on Spitfires from 1976-1980. The Moss Motors technician said for this unit both port sizes on it are 10mm-1.0, other than the cap and outlet port size I am not sure what other differences there are. Also not sure if any differences between disc vs drum brake systems.
(NOTE: I ended up using the small cap master cylinder!)

I had originally put a 10mm-1.0 fitting on the front port brake line and will have to correct it. Like I previously stated a 10mm-1.0 fitting will thread into a 3/8"-24 and visa-versa, but you could strip threads. I guess the lesson is that even though the part is British, don't assume that the thread is metric!

I decided that since I have put so much time and effort into the vehicle that I would purchase a new brake master cylinder. The one that I have is probably just fine but once installed I really don't want to touch it again. So I purchased one, it was about 1/2 the price of Moss Motors. Victoria British also said that the unit was in stock.

Last year I had bought a sway bar from a 1994 Mazda Miata/MX5, until now had not done anything with it so decided to dust it off. First thing I did was to remove the original link ends and replace them with the suggested Triumph TR7 (any year) link ends. With the vehicle up on blocks I checked the length and it was close to what I needed however a little bit short.

So I took the sway bar and cut the length in half, and bolted each half in place. I used a Tee square to keep the two halves straight and got a measurement, turns out that it was exactly 3-7/8" short so I cut a piece of 3/4" diameter steel rod, tapered all the ends down and TIG welded it together on my welding bench. When done I ground down the welds to flush and threw some painted on it. Put it back into place and it fits perfectly. All that I have left to do is to purchase some sway bar mounts and bolt into position.

I had recently received the new Spax G761 front dampers and they looked great. I adjusted the spring mounting perch to about 1/4" higher than the factory shocks. I only had time to remove and recompress one of the springs and put the coil-over back into place.

It looks like the original mounting in the Spitfire did not mount the master cylinder perfectly horizontal, but it was mounted with the front angled up so that the top of the reservoir was level (a pretty steep angle). Since I am mounting it perfectly horizontally I am concerned that the level at the back port would not be sufficient. In addition the rear port does not seem to be 7/16"-24 so a standard brake line fitting does not work, I suspect that there was some sort of special Tee that was made up and perhaps it is 7/16"-20.

Here is a picture comparing the large cap model to the small cap one, other than the ports there is another major difference that being under the back of the reservoir. The large cap one has a raised section at the rear, which when mounted horizontally makes it marginal for getting enough fluid into the reservoir so that the rear 'intake' remains covered. While looking at the late model 'small cap' one you can see that the master cylinder does not have this raised section, making it more appropriate for my application.

I had previously modified the old plunger on the master cylinder so that the length was adjustable, it easily swapped onto the newer unit.

Very important note here: the ends of the brake lines that go into the master cylinder have to have a bubble flair! Be sure not to double flair them or they may not seal properly. The other ends of the lines used a 7/16"-24 tube nut with a proper double flair. Here is a picture showing the new plumbing installed it looks real nice with the new master cylinders installed!

I needed to run a vent for the fuel cell and decided to put it into the tunnel for the steering rack. I used a 1/8" NPT to 1/4" barbed nipple and drilled a hole and screwed it into the plywood. The red arrow above shows it mounted right next to the battery, a short length of tubing is used along with a couple of clamps to connect to the tank vent.

Here is picture showing the current front trunk layout.

Got the new lines made up and installed as well as using some clamps to secure them in place. I also decided on how I was going to route the stainless steel braided lines, a bit differently than I had previously thought that they would be done I had concerns about the length of hose that was free to move. I had decided to use two nylon cable ties and secure them onto the upper A-arm and then clamp them to the underside of my headlight boxes, rather than routing them around the top plate of the sub-frames.

A quick check and saw that there was enough length in the lines and enough slack to allow proper movement of the front suspension through out the entire range of motion. Here are some pictures showing how they were routed:

Drivers side	Passenger side

I used some clear silicone caulk and filled all of the holes in the front trunk area where the brake/clutch lines were routed through to seal them up.

The remaining shock absorber on the passenger side was replaced with the new Spax shock and got mounted into place.

This is a satin aluminum double track extrusion that I will be using as the framework for my sliding rear window. They only sell it in 12' lengths however they will cut it down for UPS shipping, in my case I had them cut it into 2' sections.

I will TIG weld the framework to fit into the space as required, and put in some weep holes for drainage of water. I will be using 1/4" tinted lexan (same as used in door windows) that I have left over for the sliding panels.

Shep has been tremendously helpful when it comes to my questions about details and I can't thank him enough!
Here is a picture of Shep's shifter that he sent me:

Once I finished machining up the shifter I brought it to my local machine shop. I wanted to cut into the top of it a tapered dovetail and my small mini-mill just does not not have the height to put it in. We used 5/16" straight bit to first hog out some material and then finished it with a high speed wood dovetail bit that I had brought with me. Once done I will make a nice wood top to fit onto the shifter and it will be held in place by the dovetail. Here is a picture of it so far:

It took most of the day to make all of the parts here are the other parts, I still have to put in the mounting holes into the base as well as a 1/4" threaded stud into the linkage. I started to polish up the shifter, still more work to do and once done with all the parts I will polish the aluminum so it has a nice finish:

I then mounted the shifter in what appeared to be a suitable spot, I moved it slightly forward of the front seats and directly in the middle (I wanted to still be able to slide the seats forward and back) and used four #12 x 1" long screws. I then guesstimated where to locate the hole that goes in the back bulkhead so that the shifting linkage could connect to the bellcrank. Initially I used a 1" diameter hole cut with a spade bit, but ended up putting another 1" hole directly below the first. So I guess that I put the original hole about 1/2" to high...

Next I figured the length between the shifter and the bellcrank and cut some round tubing (like all the other linkages), on one end I welded a U shaped bracket that connects to the bellcrank and on the other end I welded a 5-16" x 1" long bolt.

After assembling all the linkage and playing with it a bit it quickly became apparent that the shifter had way too much throw. So I decided to remove the bellcrank and shorten one of the arms about 1/2" in order to reduce the throw of the shifter. While I had the bellcrank off the subframe it was a convenient time to put some cotter pins into the 1/2" bolts that retained the shaft, this way I do not have to worry about them loosening up in the future.

Fooling around some more I had to shorten up the linkage that connected to the transmission by about 1-1/2" and also changed the angle of the shifting lever that connected to the transmission. Lots of trial and error can be spent here to achieve desirable results

Lots more playing around trying to get just the right setup until I finally got it! Now the shifter moves about 1-1/2" forward and backward from neutral. It moves easily and with positive motion through out it's range (with very little slop) and I am quite happy with it.

Here is a picture of the shifter installed and in neutral position:

They have a nice1/3hp buffing machine (BUFF115K) which has extended shafts, 6" wheels, abrasives and a buffing wheel rake for a reasonable price of $117.07. In addition they also have a buffing machine stand (BS9945) which this machine fits for an additional $28.97 which will free up some valuable work bench space.

I have been researching replacement of the front turn/running light sockets that I have. I got the turn signal housings out of a late model Dodge Colt wagon (approx 1984ish) and recently found out that one of the sockets was too corroded to work properly. I will modify the dousings and replace the bad sockets with these new ones.

There is another socket that might work #84809, but I thought that I would try the #85860 first. I found a good article on the internet that lead me to these parts called 1157 Turn Signal Mod and it is worthwhile reading.

#85860	#84809